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Topic: No Brakes

in Forum: C4 Handling Components


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No Brakes (1/17)
 8/11/10 7:31am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


Joined: 12/5/2009
Posts: 179

Over the last few weeks, I could feel the brake pedal getting a little spongy. I took it out last night and the pedal went to the floor and pumping the pedal builds up enough pressure to stop the car (never went over 35mph).  Both reservoirs have maintained their fluid levels so there's no leak there. When the pedal goes soft and before pumping it, there's almost zero braking action. I think that tells me it isn't a bad caliper since the front and rear are independant of each other according to my Haynes manual.
 
Now I'm trying to determine a few things before digging in....
 
I'm fairly certain it's the master cylinder - anybody have any advice how to determine the failing component before dismantling ?
 
After the repairs are done, I plan on a thoroughly draining all of the brake fuid in the whole system. I'll need to decide whether to refill with the original DOT3 or go to something newer. I haven't checked into this much but have come across an article or two in Vette magazines that suggest a few newer products. Any advice or experience on the type of fluid is much appreciated.
 
The car has nearly 150K miles, so I am also wondering if the booster should be replaced as well while I'm at it? I had a brake job done about 25K miles ago and the pads and rotors look fine, but the condition of the calipers is unknown at this point.
 
Thanks folks !
Dave
 


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No Brakes (2/17)
 8/11/10 7:49am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

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1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


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Forgot to mention the information center displays "Brake P I" when the pedal goes to the floor, and then turns off after pumping up some pressure

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No Brakes (3/17)
 8/11/10 9:36am
blacksharkL82
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Spring Hill, FL - USA

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1992 coupe. Custom.


Joined: 8/9/2010
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Once a year, I flush the entire brake system.
Sounds like a MC, could be something else.
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No Brakes (4/17)
 8/11/10 6:01pm
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


Joined: 3/22/2009
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dave,
 
first thing i would do is to check each caliper for any signs of brake fluid. if none is found i would try bleeding the brakes as air in the lines will do the same thing as you describe. if the pedal stays hard thats great. if not then i would consider the m/c. as parts are expensive i would hate to see you replace stuff that didn't need replacing.
 
dave


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No Brakes (5/17)
 8/11/10 6:29pm
96LT1
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Powhatan, VA - USA

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1996 Polo Green LT1 Coupe


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If you're not loosing fluid externally then--- yes IMO it sounds like a master cylinder---i'm also assuming you've done no other repairs to the brake system to allow air to get in the system---if not once again sounds like the MC.
 
I flushed my brake system about 2 years ago using a synthetic fluid made by BG products (Dot 4) and i'm pleased. Many members of some of the online Vette forums say to never ever use synthetic brake fluid in a C4 "it will destroy the ABS unit" Big smile---but i've had no issues with mine. They may be correct on the earlier C4s the ABS pumps vary from year to year. You can't go wrong using the factory recommended fluid (Dot 3)--- the important thing is to flush the system periodically it is usually something which gets neglected.
 
  
                                                                                     Vaughn
 
BTW--- as far as the booster goes since the fluid level isn't dropping I'm guessing fluid isn't leaking into the booster--- so IMO it should be ok
96LT12010-08-12 04:58:06
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No Brakes (6/17)
 8/13/10 10:34am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

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1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


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Posts: 179

Thanks for all the input guys !
 
I checked all over the place for a new or remanufactured MC and everybody is out of stock, Ecklers, Mid America, Corvette Central, Summit, Race Pages, Auto Parts Warehouse, and the list goes on. My local NAPA guy made tons of phone calls too. I ended up getting a rebuild kit from JC Whitney and should be here in 7-10 days (can't believe I won't be able to drive it for 2+ weeks, crud)
 
I have no experience with MC's - looked at a few DIY's and it looks fairly straight forward
 
I'm pretty sure I'm going to use DOT3 heavy duty fluid when I flush the entire system.
 
Still on the fence about the booster. Car has 150K miles and I have no intention of ever selling it. My approach over the last 6 years is to do each project the best I can.... since the 2 components are directly related, I'm still thinking of replacing it. The brakes have never been as good as they should since I bought it and there's no way of knowing if it was the MC, booster, or both.....  hmmmm..... think think think
 
Wish me luck, I'll be really torqued if the rebuild kit is wrong or on back order too....


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No Brakes (7/17)
 8/14/10 4:39am
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


Joined: 3/22/2009
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instead of going through ordering it from the ones you stated, did you try your local parts store. i picked mine up from advance auto and it comes with a lifetime guarantee. most times if they dont have it in stock it will be there the next day.

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No Brakes (8/17)
 8/14/10 6:13am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

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1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


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Yeap, NAPA, Auto World, and Auto Zone  (the 1st two also made phone calls to confirm there was no availablilty and ask for alternatives)
 
How long ago did you buy yours ?


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No Brakes (9/17)
 8/14/10 12:54pm
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

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1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


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the first one was 2 years ago and just had it replaced in june. first time they had it in stock second time i had it the next day.



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No Brakes (10/17)
 8/18/10 7:46am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

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1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


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Posts: 179

Oh Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo................ just got this email from JC Whitney

Dear Dave,

Thank you for your recent order with JC Whitney.

We regret to inform you that the item you ordered, 079358 ( Professional Grade Brake Master Cylinder )
will not work with the make and model of your vehicle. Our supplier is unable
to provide a match for your vehicle. Therefore, this item has been cancelled
from your order. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

Your business is very important to us, and we appreciate your patronage.

If you have any questions regarding this cancellation notification, please contact
our Customer Service Department by using the link or phone number below.

JC Whitney
 
Now I gotta restart my search for a brake master cylinder GM# 130.62080 or rebuild kit
 


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No Brakes (11/17)
 8/18/10 9:28am
engineerguy
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I don't know who your napa guy is but I looked at NAPAONLINE and they have new mastercylinders, rebuit ones, kits, even master cylinder and booster combos.
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No Brakes (12/17)
 8/18/10 10:32am
FLDAVE
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I don't know how technical you are but, I always rebuilt them. Masters and wheels. It's simple and easy. With rebuilt you don't know what quality of soft bits you're getting, or the age of the core. Usually in rebuilt they use the  cheapest stuff. And its done by some kid wearing a diaper sitting in the dirt holding it with his bare feet in some fourth world country.

If the booster is plastic replace it. The are really cheaply made and usually fail due to the housing cracking. There are some after market ones made of steel. Try and find one of those. There are also "Universal fit" ones with a couple of extra vacuum fittings that look pretty awful.

The hardest part of removing the Master Cylinder is unhooking it from the brade pedal. Try to find a smalll skinny friend to help with that part.

Also if you have a Male 'vette (stick shift) you might as well rebuild the clutch Master Cylinder as well. With the brake M/C and booster off its right there calling to you. "Don't forget me, I'm old too".

 
Good luck.
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No Brakes (13/17)
 8/18/10 4:08pm
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

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1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


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dave,
try advanceauto.com. they can send it to you if they have it. my master cylinder comes off the brake booster. i would try replacing that first. my theory is no sense going thru a lot of extra work if something is not broken.


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No Brakes (14/17)
 8/20/10 7:16am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


Joined: 12/5/2009
Posts: 179

Thanks everyone for the input.... NAPA and AutoZone have both explained the 89-91 M/C's are on national back order... including OEM, rebuilt and kits. My local NAPA guy checked again yesterday and found there was 1 rebuild kit in Chicago and I grabbed it. Should be here Monday. His best guess is the rebuild kit he found was a return/restock and that's why there was only one.
During my online shopping, I contacted each of the stores in person and had them verify they had the item in stock and each one came back saying it was on back order - OEM, rebuilt, and kit. Usually the sites tell you it's on back order, but in this case none of them did.
 
Over the last 6 yars, I have bought alot of parts (mechanical and interior) for my 89 and this is the 1st time I've run into problems with availability
 
Now I'm trying to get my money back from JC Whitney while I wait for the kit to arrive. It's a beautiful summer, so no matter what, it's all good Smile
 
 


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No Brakes (15/17)
 8/20/10 6:16pm
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

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1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


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it runs in spurts dave. you can go and order things and usually get them UNTIL YOU NEED THEM. there have been a couple things i have run across. it took 3 months to get the molding on my front bumper. finally got one out of a junkyard. egr solenoid was the same except they finally had to come out with an aftermarket replacement. on my 75 the proportioning valve went and it took me 7 weeks to get one.CensoredWits End.
 
it does get frustrating but at least you got one. let us know how you make out.Thumbs UpBeerClap


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No Brakes (16/17)
 8/27/10 7:31am
redvette89
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Huron, OH - USA

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1989 Red Convertible - 160,000 fun-filled miles -


Joined: 12/5/2009
Posts: 179

Installed the kit last night and I'm back up and running! All of the parts in the kit fit perfect and the cylinder wall had no signs of wear or scoring. Visually, all of the old components looked fine but I have no way of knowing if the combination piston is okay or not. I was surprised how bad the brake fluid was when I drained it from each of the bleeders. The fluid that came out of each of the calipers was a little milky looking when I initially opened the bleeders, so there was definitely moisture in the system. On top of that, 2 of them squirted out a little junk when I started refilling the system. After bleeding all 4 brakes, I removed all of the bleeders, cleaned them, and bled again. While bleeding the 2nd time around, a little more junk passed through.  I'm now back up and running after 3 weeks of down time. Car stops well and is better than it's ever been during the 6 years I've owned it, but it still isn't as good as I think it should be. I'll bet a beer or 2 there's more junk in the calipers and I see more wear on the rotors/pads with the wheels off than I previously thought. I see a complete brake job in my future.  

I am now a true believer of "flushing the entire brake system" once a year - Excellent Advice and most grateful for everyone's input!
 
Thanks, Dave


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No Brakes (17/17)
 8/27/10 5:11pm
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

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1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


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great to hear that you are up and running.

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