It's possible that the vent latch messed up the hatch latch, but I think it's the hatch itself...have you tried having someone hit the release while you push/pull on the hatch latch?

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Remember, there's no place like ~ ;)

There's really nothing the vent latch can mess up. The clicking is the solenoid releasing the latch so that's good. If your struts are like mine (original) they don't operate smooth enough to always push the hatch up and often need a little help to get started. So, try as suggested previously. If it stays locked, then the fun on your back begins. Mine's open at the moment. I can get you a picture if it doesn't release.

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Good suggestions.  I pushed the button while my husband pulled on the vent latch and nothing.  It wasn't releasing but it is still clicking.    Yep, my back has been getting a workout unfortunately. I have been using the manual release cord.

These may help. Perhaps the solenoid is detached but not because of the adapter. I don't think the solenoid will click if the switch is bad.

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Thanks for the pics. I think the solenoid is fried.   I took it apart and used the manual to see if the plunger went in and out.  Sometimes it became stuck and I had to push it back in.  When I push the release button it does nothing.  Another fix to add to my list.  It won't stop me  from driving so.....it goes to the bottom of my list. 

There's a hatch release relay, too. Something to be aware of and check.

IMO..it sounds to me that the switch and the relay are working. if either one was bad the solenoid wouldn't even click. i would go for a new solenoid too.

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the dynamic duo

c3vr life member #97

I recently experienced the exact problem on my 88 Targa.  While I pushed the button with a long wooden dowel, standing behind the car I could hear the relay click but the hatch lock would not activate to the open position.  After a couple of clicks I located the hatch relay about 6 or 8 inches to the right of the hatch mechanism  It would open manually with the safety cable so I knew it wasn't the mechanical part of the switch. I hunted down a used hatch assembly on Ebay for about $45.00 and now it works every time with the console button and the release switches on the doors. I had already replaced the strut shocks with new ones but the hatch would still unlock even if the old shocks would not lift the hatch to the fully open position.  Hope this helps. Good Luck!  

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I recently experienced the exact problem on my 88 Targa.  While I pushed the button with a long wooden dowel, standing behind the car I could hear the relay click but the hatch lock would not activate to the open position.  After a couple of clicks I located the hatch relay about 6 or 8 inches to the right of the hatch mechanism  It would open manually with the safety cable so I knew it wasn't the mechanical part of the switch. I hunted down a used hatch assembly on Ebay for about $45.00 and now it works every time with the console button and the release switches on the doors. I had already replaced the strut shocks with new ones but the hatch would still unlock even if the old shocks would not lift the hatch to the fully open position.  Hope this helps. Good Luck!  

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Just to get it open, try to reduce the friction that is there by having someone push the button and the other person actually PUSH DOWN on the hatch at the latch before pulling up.

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ASE Master Certified, L1 Certified, Owner/Tech

I realize this is a very old thread, but I've searched for newer or more relevant posts and didn't find any. So, as a new person to the C4VR, I'd like to share a frustrating experience I just resolved. It wasn't electrical, but absolutely prevented my rear hatch glass from opening. I have a 1991 ZR1 and yesterday the hatch was sticking after the release button was pressed and the servo popped the latch. After exploring what I could, I ran a thin plastic squeegee around the hatch, between the glass and seal, thinking it might have been stuck someplace and holding the glass down...nope. Then, checking the forums and YouTube, I realized that it seemed the latch was not fully releasing. I went back to the car and tried 3-4 times to close/release and watch the action. What I noticed was that the striker was catching on the plastic cover that sits over the retractable security cover. Carefully, I pryed up on the glass with my fingers and it cleared the plastic cover. What I found was the plastic 'guard' (probably to inhibit rattling) was worn and distorted to the point that a piece of it had split and buckled, which was catching firmly enough on the plastic panel that it would prevent the lift shocks from opening the glass any further. Thoroughly annoying but easily fixed. For now I just took a razor blade and trimmed off the back part of the 'guard' and will simply replace the whole piece. Hope this helps someone else with no mechanical or electrical issues...just a good ol' piece of worn plastic. (Edit: I realize the image is for the "vent" add-on for the striker, but it does help illustrate the issue.)

|UPDATED|11/1/2022 1:35:45 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|